Day 4 Hutton Wood to Staithes

A little rain in the night. I was conscious of being very close to a stream in a narrow valley, and the possibility of flooding. But no rain was forecast, so unlikely to get a torrential downpour. Nevertheless, the sound of the babbling brook was more worrying than relaxing. But absolutely no wind, an extremely sheltered spot


A relaxed 7am start to the walking today. The wind has almost completely dropped, and the sky looks as promising as I could hope for towards the coast, where I’m heading


Less so towards the moor that I will soon be leaving. I spot two deer running away from me. Their dark brown coats perfectly matching the colour of the heather.

The sun is out and this is the warmest morning so far, and the scenery is uplifting

It seems a long four miles to Slapwith, maybe it’s more like five. The busy A171 starts to intrude into the soundscape. It’s strange, I hadn’t noticed the absence of traffic, but now that it’s back it’s very noticeable


On my original plan I would be arriving here tonight. Glad I’m not, it’s a bit noisy around here


I spread out my tent to dry in the warm sun and cool breeze, and eat the ham and leek pie that I had bought in Osmotherley.

I am now in farmland, the song of skylarks fills the air, and the warm sun battles it out with the chilly air


At Skelton I encounter my first navigational challenge of the route so far. A housing estate is being built on the line of the path. There is a diversion and I trudge towards it and am accosted by a guy peering over his fence. Yes I am doing the Cleveland Way. He advises me of a better diversion across some playing fields. It is a service he regularly provides to passing walkers


The approach to Saltburn along the deep ravine carved by Skelton Beck is quite delightful


At Saltburn I realise I am over halfway in distance.

Have Stilton and broccoli soup and a coffee in Signals Cafe, and also recharge my phone and plan out the rest of the day


The coast beckons me southwards


Coastal walking can be surprisingly tough: lots of steep ups and downs


But for today at least, once up the tops present easy walking. The temperature climbs in the spring sunshine and I’m soon in my T-shirt. T-shirt and gloves, as the air is still cold and my hands suffer easily


This must be a scenic railway journey


Interesting art installation. I think it is designed to blow in the wind like a large wind chime. Today it is still and soundless


Walking through the dunes to Skinningrove, where I get my water bottle refilled by one of the locals. Tomorrow is all set to change apparently, the racing pigeons have been grounded and rain is on the way


For today however, summer rules, the gorse smells of coconut and the bees are as busy as.....Bees


Staithes, my target for tonight comes into view


There are over 1,000 miles of tunnels beneath the land here, potash mining, extending out beneath the sea. I am looking for likely camping spots


The heart of Staithes is a quaint old fishing village.


I nip onto The Royal George for beer and steak and ale pie

I have identified two potential camping spots. One on the path near the potash mines, the other in local woods – but that needs a site visit

The pie and chips, and Theakstons Best Bitter, are just what I need. I leave just before 8pm, it will soon be dark so need to get my camping pitch sorted

The route on the map looks quite straightforward, but on the ground less so. There’s a small residential caravan site, and paths going in five directions. The residents treat me with suspicion, my cover story is I’m looking for the path to Port Mulgrave – where I aim to rejoin the coastal path tomorrow

I am on the wrong path. The path I want is 20m up a woody bank. I emerge through the trees to encounter a couple walking their dog, who are also wondering what I’m up to

When they’ve disappeared, I sneak into the target zone. It’s looking a bit open, but off to one side is a flat, completely sheltered, and hidden pitch. I disturb two deer, who bound off before I can get a picture


Up goes my tent, should be OK here for the night

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