Day 1 Helmsley to Faries Parlour

Awake just before 6am, holiday excitement obviously kicking in. It’s a chilly morning, and is forecast to be cool for the rest of the week. But dry. I had made my final clothing choices yesterday, opting for Sue’s old Paramo jacket rather than lightweight mac.


Set off, as planned, at 8.45. Tram was waiting for me at the station,  but card reader would not recognise either of my cards. Door closing beeps and a quick decision required: use card at ticket machine or jump on and explain if required. I jump on, but the tram doesn’t move.


An announcement. Problem with overhead lines. Advised to hold position. I’m now off the tram and heading for bus stop. I see a 43 bus on the other side of the lights so slowly run, with heavy pack, and get the bus into town

I get to Victoria Station with 15 minutes to spare and the train is sat waiting for me on platform 4. The journey to York runs smoothly, where I pick up the Scarborough train and get off at Malton


Malton bus station is somewhat over-hyped. It is four bus stops with minimal information. I believe that the 177 will get me tto Helmsley and the start of the walk, but there are no clues about this at the stops.  Just before 1pm a minibus belonging to Ryedale Community Transport pulls up, and yes, it goes to Helmsley

There are about half a dozen passengers on the bus and they are delighted to see me. I’m the only one without a bus pass and having to pay. Everyone knows everyone else and they want to know where I’m from and what I’m doing. The Cleveland Way gets a big thumbs up of approval. It’s very nice, I’m told

The bus goes through many small villages, with stone houses and red pan-tiled roofs, but really this is just a Malton to Helmsley taxi.

We all get out at the town market square, I am pointed to the start of my walk, which is opposite a hotel on a nearby street.


I buy provisions for two lunches at a deli and decide the old cross in the market square is a more fitting starting point.


I nip into the church for a look around. It s the sort of thing my dad would definitely have done


Really liked the painted walls and ceilings


And then it’s the start of the official walk, proceeding in a westerly direction down Cleveland Way

Today is a short day. I’m aiming for Sutton Bank 8 miles away


The walking is mainly along wooded paths and tracks


We pass very close to Rievaulx Abbey, but I’m not tempted by the diversion. It’s probably closed or about to close


Much like the Hambleton Inn, which would have been a welcome stopping point, but closed years ago


Sutton Bank forms part of a long escarpment. It appeared very suddenly. The land just fell away to reveal huge views across the plain of York to the Pennines

One problem is going to be a lack of water. It’s all in the land below, and I’ve no desire to lose height. Luckily there is an outside tap at the closed visitor centre at the top of Sutton Bank and I fill my water bottle

I have picked a likely camping spot one kilometre further on near the delightfully named cave of Faries Parlour


It’s a great spot, a clearing in the trees with braken to soften the ground


My dinner is a rehydrated chicken curry meal in a packet. It bears no relation to any chicken curry I’ve ever tasted, but it’s warm, it’s 600 calories, and it’s ready in 8 minutes


Great location

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